Claire's Sewing Room

Couture sewing takes time and patience.  Much of the construction is done by hand often because the fabrics are tricky and there could be complicated design details. Since spending time with Claire Shaeffer, who is an internationally respected author, lecturer and columnist and who has a collection of over 2000 couture garments many of which are Chanel,  I have been inspired to do more couture sewing and share some of these skills.

On this workshop, you will learn some of the secrets of couture many of which are used in the classic cardigan jacket.  From cutting out, tacking and hand stitching.  Choosing which fabrics to use for linings, buttonholes as well as what needles and threads to use. We will also look at how to make trims similar to those used on couture jackets.

Lesson 1 (in 2 parts) Making a toile and checking the fit, preparing your fabric and pattern and marking up

Week 2 Staying Front Edges, bust shaping and machine quilting

Week 3 Talk about Trims and Buttonholes, 

Week 4 Making up the body of the jacket and finishing the lining, hems & shoulder seams .

Week 5 Sleeves, pockets & finishing

Join me and let’s make a Couture Jacket together.

Materials Needed : 

Pattern – For the classic Chanel Style Jacket I use Vogue 8804 (the red jacket pictured left)– a classic French Style Jacket but the techniques could be used for other patterns too. V7975 is also a very good pattern 

Outer Fabric – Linton Tweed from Bloomsbury Square Fabrics or Linton Tweeds or a similar tweed with a wool content

In Couture Sewing we use slightly more fabric than the amount mentioned on the pattern to allow for wider seam & hem allowances, decide how long you would like your jacket, measure from the shoulder to the hem, add 6” (15cm) – you will need twice this length plus 1 sleeve length, measure from the shoulder to the wrist, add 6” (15cm) Pockets should fit in between pieces but you could add a bit more for these – I usually buy 2 ½ yards or 2.25m

Lining Fabric – Silk Crepe De Chine or similar the same amount as your outer fabric

Other Materials which can be purchased from The Sewing Room

Silk Organza, Stay Tape – silk organza selvedge or cotton stay tape, Wigan – 2.5m, Tacking Cotton – 2/3 reels in colour that will show up on your main fabric, 

Couture Chain – 1.5m, Beeswax

You will also need: 2 Threads to match the outer Fabric, 2 Threads to Match the Lining, Trim (optional)

Buttons (optional)

For Hand Stitched Buttonholes (optional)

     Gimp Cord, Silk Buttonhole Thread

There is a couture kit available to purchase from our website which contains the main things you need

Level: Intermediate/Advanced